Songbird Is Destined To Be St. Louis' Breakfast Go-To Spot

May 6, 2021 at 6:20 am
Janie's Mill rye biscuits with house-cured salmon, creme fraiche, dill micros and sieved egg.
Janie's Mill rye biscuits with house-cured salmon, creme fraiche, dill micros and sieved egg. MABEL SUEN

Chris Meyer and Mike Miller didn't set out to make the perfect breakfast sandwich. Really, all they wanted to do was provide a little something for people to eat after noticing the popularity of breakfast items at the Tower Grove Farmers' Market, where they ran their booth, Kitchen Kulture. When they first started doing the market there were already several vendors doing breakfast, and the market seemed saturated with good options, so they focused on their prepared-food business and left the morning fare to others.

However, over the years, Meyer and Miller noticed breakfast vendors dropping off one by one. Figuring that they had the following and know-how to put something together, they set out to fill the market's breakfast void, experimenting with different ideas and trying them out on their customers week in and week out. Over time, what developed was a crowd-sourced specimen of breakfast sandwich perfection called the Combo — flawlessly, buttery-griddled sourdough, a gooey egg, applewood smoked bacon, a sprinkle of sea salt and a drizzle of honey — that developed such a cult following it came to define their booth.

The Combo with three slices of aged white cheddar on toasted sourdough with three slices of applewood-smoked bacon and a fried egg, finished with sea salt and honey. - MABEL SUEN
MABEL SUEN
The Combo with three slices of aged white cheddar on toasted sourdough with three slices of applewood-smoked bacon and a fried egg, finished with sea salt and honey.

The Combo is the cornerstone of the menu at Meyer and Miller's new restaurant, Songbird, which opened this past November in the Grove. A sister eatery to their beloved Lindenwood Park spot, Kounter Kulture, Songbird came to be after the pair realized that they needed a daytime-focused business that would be not only a home for their breakfast sandwich, but also an opportunity for their staff to work together and seek out new opportunities within their restaurant family.

SEE ALSO: The People Behind Kitchen Kulture Open Songbird, a Soulful Breakfast Spot [PHOTOS]

Finding the right space solidified their vision. Thanks to a regular, pre-COVID catering gig with Square in Cortex, Meyer and Miller would regularly drive through the Grove and fell in love with the more residential area just north of Manchester's main commercial drag. When the storefront at the corner of Chouteau and Taylor avenues came open, they knew they had their spot and got to work on developing their ideas as well as the space. This included their daytime-focused offerings, as well as a partnership with their longtime friends at Sump to run the restaurant's coffee program.

The COVID-19 outbreak temporarily put their plans on hold, but it also allowed Meyer and Miller time to really think through what kind of restaurant they wanted Songbird to be. After months of planning and figuring out how to navigate running a food business during a pandemic, they opened their doors for curbside service on November 28, bringing to life a soulful spot that is sure to become the city's go-to for outstanding breakfast fare.

Chris Meyer (pictured) and Mike Miller sell the perfect breakfast sandwich — and plenty of other amazing dishes — at Songbird. - MABEL SUEN
MABEL SUEN
Chris Meyer (pictured) and Mike Miller sell the perfect breakfast sandwich — and plenty of other amazing dishes — at Songbird.

Songbird is so successful because it evokes the easy comfort of breakfast nostalgia while maintaining Meyer and Miller's commitment to quality, local sourcing and thoughtful touches. Easily recognizable yet inspired, the menu builds upon the popular Combo with items like a Sprouted Grain English Muffin, another outstanding breakfast sandwich that pairs a Buttonwood Farms turkey sausage patty with an over-medium farm egg cooked so perfectly it survived even the twenty-minute journey back to my house. The English muffin made from Lindley Mill flour is more rustic than traditional sourdough, and pairs beautifully with a nutty brown butter aioli.

The mushroom and kale frittata is perfection of the form. The hearty greens, earthy mushrooms and cheddar cheese are folded into a custard that's both impossibly rich and light as air at the same time. A side of mixed greens with a bright plum vinaigrette balances the dish.