Knowledge of wine carries either an air or odor of distinction: Just enough savvy and you're a great date. Lengthy diatribes on the merits of Italian reds and you're a pretentious jerk. "This is not as in-your-face," says co-owner Mike Gray, describing a chardonnay to a customer. "It's simple. Elegant." Funny, that's exactly the way we'd describe Grapevine Wines & Cheese. The handsomely displayed wooden crates and rows of wine aren't too much for the eyes to soak in or too much for the pocketbook to comprehend. A cheaper domestic looks just as stately as its neighbor, a pricier foreign selection. Let this be a comfort to you who throw a bottle of Beaujolais into the grocery cart because it's on sale but couldn't dream how to pronounce it. The staff will not blow you off in favor of an oenophile with a fat wallet and a European accent. Instead they'll sing the praises of a bottle they'll be cracking open this weekend themselves. And if you stop in for one of Grapevine's wine tastings, you can take some vino for a test sip. Chances are it'll turn out to be exactly what you wanted: the khaki pants of wine -- affordable and goes with everything.