There are other restaurants that make impressive showings with their wine lists Tony's, Eleven Eleven Mississippi, Sidney Street Cafbut none with the underdog panache of Riddles. Because a place like Riddles just isn't supposed to have such a mind-blowing wine list. It's a juke joint, a place where live blues and bluegrass come at you from a cramped storefront window, a place where a hodgepodge of college kids and over-the-hill hippies peacefully co-exist. It's a pile of bricks in the Loop (a stretch not exactly known as the pinnacle of St. Louis haute cuisine). And yetthunkhere's the massive book o' wines, riddled (did we say that?) with bargains. Maybe it's time we retired this category.