In search of a pack of Marlboro Lights 100s in a box? Go to the nearest gas station. But if you're looking to burnish your inner sophisticate with a Davidoff or a Montecristo, Jon's Pipe Shop is the place for you. The small shop reeks of years' worth of the world's finest tobaccos. And if the aroma don't make you dizzy, the assortment of smoking accoutrements -- cigar cutters, Dunhill lighters, crystal ashtrays -- will. From the walk-in humidor to the soigné smoking lounge, Jon's retrieves smoking from its derided state and -- if only briefly -- lets you wrap yourself in the unmitigated pleasure of a smoke thoroughly enjoyed.