Natthinee "Joy" Teerakawanid has been cooking in Thai restaurants since she moved to the U.S. six years ago, but she never felt she was making actual Thai food — at least not the traditional recipes she'd learned to cook from her grandmother. Longing for an authentic taste of her homeland, Teerakawanid decided to branch out on her own and opened Thai Table in Maplewood in October 2018. Though the names of the dishes at Thai Table might read like those you'd find in other Thai restaurants around town, what differentiates them is their nuance and depth of flavor. Here, pad Thai is not the red, sticky-sweet platter of noodles so often peddled but is instead an umami bomb of soy and fish sauces with just a whisper of sweetness. Her curries, like the magnificent lemongrass-spiked massaman beef of Panang curry, are outstanding. However, if there is one must-try dish, it's the nam tok beef, a thrilling platter of tender, char-kissed flank steak electrified by lime juice.
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