Many a meeting has been spoiled when someone said, "Meet me at Thai Café in the Loop." Did she mean Thai Café, Thai Country Café, Thai Seafood Café or Thai Gai Yang Café? Surely the owners know the difference, given that all four restaurants are run by the same family. But why did they choose to invite such confusion? Naming lapses aside, Thai Country Café still tops the list of local Thai spots. This is the one with the wagon wheels inside; hence, perhaps, the "country" connection. There's even a fried chicken soup, which is a good entry point for the timid palate. Portions are large but prices are small, so it's tempting -- and rewarding -- to order a wide array of victuals from the vast selection. By all means, go for spring rolls, panang curry, pad Thai and the like, but don't neglect the soups: yum woon sen, chock-full of glass noodles and lots of plump shrimp, makes for a hearty meal in itself.