Best Taqueria

La Monarca

The owners of Taqueria La Monarca have made a few changes since opening the current location of the combination restaurant-market in 2009. They've switched the dining room and the market, so that the former now occupies the larger, brighter space. They've obtained a liquor license, and the restaurant now serves beer and margaritas (including a 72-ounce "Monster" size). Finally, they dropped "taqueria" from the name. Don't fret. While the menu does now offer a few dishes (hard-shell tacos, chicken wings) that hardly fit the traditional taqueria template, the classic fare remains — and it remains supreme. Traditional tacos (served in doubled-up corn tortillas, topped with diced onion and cilantro) come two to an order for $3.99, each piled high with the protein of your choosing. Pork is the standout: al pastor, suadero, chorizo and chicharron. Tortas spill over with the meat of your choice and toppings (onion, tomato, avocado, jalapeño, lettuce and cheese). And should you indulge yourself on a Friday and Saturday night with that "Monster" margarita? In the finest taqueria tradition, hangover-cure menudo is available on the weekend.

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