Best Taqueria

Taqueria Durango

The word is out: Several of the best traditional Mexican restaurants in St. Louis are located near the airport. Still, Overland's Taqueria Durango feels like a hidden gem, a modest space set far enough back from the road that, without a GPS device, you'll almost certainly have to double back to find it. Inside you can enjoy stellar tacos. The tacos al pastor (pork and pineapple) and barbacoa (beef) are standouts, and don't let the word cabeza dissuade you from trying tender beef cheek meat. (The adventurous might opt for buche, which is fried pig's esophagus.) The menu ranges beyond tacos, of course, with very good enchiladas and tortas; the latter is the traditional, overstuffed Mexican sandwich. If available, the torta ahogada is a must-order: carnitas and onions on the standard bolillo roll, which is then drenched (ahogar means "to drown") in a smoky, fiery red chile sauce. If the torta ahogada isn't on the day's menu, you should return until it is. As a bonus, on your next visit, you'll know exactly where you're going.

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