Fitting, really, that Modesto is located on the Hill, home of so many Italian-restaurant workhorses. Those places, they try. Modesto? Modesto just does. Lets the food speak for itself, with very little gussying-up given to Spanish ingredients. Allows parties to meander their way through their meals (lubricated by a few buckets of sangria, natch). Rises above the ballyhooed tapas craze with solid, authentic, real-deal Spanish cuisine. Throws a bash every night in its warm, wood-hued space. Puts both the "mod" and the "modest" in Modesto, really.