Best Sushi

Miso on Meramec

Miso on Meramec boldly describes its revamped menu as a "revolution." Eliott Harris, who took over the kitchen of the Clayton sushi mainstay earlier this year, delivers the goods to back that claim. If your sushi experience is limited to California, spider and other Americanized rolls, Harris' creations will nudge your tastes to new heights. If you consider yourself a sushi connoisseur who would rather forgo the finest sea urchin than order a roll, Harris will show you what you've been missing. Start with the "Papasan," which pairs the searing heat of jalapeño with the cool, clean flavors of striped bass, snow crab and avocado. The "Araka" is a study in elegance: luscious salmon and Asian pear contrasted with crisp tempura shrimp. Enoki mushrooms, rarely seen on St. Louis menus, give the "Magic Mushroom" its name; a red-chile aioli and a quick bake give it a kick and a meaty savor. If you aren't ready for the full revolution, you can still order many of the classic sushi rolls, and by all means try the topnotch sashimi and nigiri sushi. This is the rare revolution when every side wins.

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