Seems like every time we bend down to fetch a dropped chopstick another Japanese joint opens up. Fine by us -- we can never get enough good sushi. Note the good in that last sentence -- as in fresh. We've got several favorites -- Sekisui on South Grand (see "Best Chain Restaurant"), Nobu's on Olive, to name two -- but this year we were especially taken by Wasabi's beautiful emergence onto the renovated Washington Avenue corridor. Even more impressive than the massive mural of Mount Fuji is owner/sushi master Jung Lee's treatment of the fish he flies in every day. By all means, ask what's freshest and order your fill à la carte, as you go. But don't dismiss the Wasabi Combo, a filling and nicely priced selection of nigiri, sashimi and maki.