There's an inherent tension in an all-you-can-eat brunch, at least for those of us simultaneously watching our girlish figures and runaway finances: The food and the drink are already paid for, so the more indulgent you are, the thriftier you seem. If you only have one plate of food at the fancy-best $18.50 brunch in the region, you're a fool, but the conscience wins; consume three plates and you just got yourself a great deal on ace food but feel like a lush. Our simple solution dictates the latter: gluttony and its consequent thrift. And it's easy to do on a Sunday at Marty's Baking. For that one chunk of change, you get a huge chunk of vittles. Scrambled eggs; bread pudding; bacon; sausage; muffins; some sort of pasta thingy; bagels with fresh salmon, capers and red onions; potatoes; potstickers (vegetable or meat); even little sliced sushi rolls. Not to mention all the orange juice (freshly squeezed) and coffee you can stuff in your pie hole. All this in addition to the impressive pie you can stuff in your hole. Bonus points: Best of all, when you arrive for your 10 a.m. or noon seating -- and be sure to make a reservation! -- you're led back behind the bakery case into the actual bakery, where the work tables amid the ovens have been covered with white linens and await your party. It's a unique setting for an unparalleled meal -- a veritable local treasure.