The steak house has experienced quite a resurgence in recent years. This shouldn't be so surprising. Americans love few things more than a thick, juicy grilled steak. What might surprise you is the look of the new steak house. The new steak house isn't the traditional wood-paneled, leather-upholstered temple of meat, where tuxedo-clad waiters show you platters of raw steaks from which you choose your meal. The new steak house laughs at the downscale, family-friendly steak-house chains (especially if they serve a Bloomin' Onion). The new steak house is slick and sexy. The menu reads like a wine list: You learn where your steak was raised and what it was fed there. Sleek, from celebrity chef Hubert Keller, is St. Louis' introduction to this brave new world of steak houses. Here you can order a reliable corn-fed American steak — or real-deal Kobe beef from Japan, so costly you have to order it by the ounce. The décor is cosmopolitan (if you ignore the ringing slots from the nearby casino floor), the waitstaff achingly hip and the bill staggering. No one said the future would be cheap. Sure is pretty, though.