Look: Most steak houses are the same at heart. Steaks. Potatoes. Salads. The rest is just atmosphere. And frankly, the stuffy, men's-clubby atmosphere of most steak houses is too much for us. Give us the raucous postgame crowd at Mike Shannon's, the air thick with hatred for the Cubs, a medium-rare steak on our plate. If the Cards are out of town, we'll sit in the bar and watch the game on one of the TV screens while we chow down. And if we happen to be there when the Cards aren't there at all — well, then we'll treat ourselves to the fancy main dining room. But even then our attention will wander to the collection of signed baseballs that decorates the columns in the center of the room. And maybe, to be contrary, we'll order the lamb chops, which — since we're being honest — are just as good as the steaks.