There are two kinds of spring rolls in St. Louis: the fat kind that look like Asian burritos, which are good and everything, but nowhere near as great as the other kind, the freshly rolled little ones the size of a Twinkie. We like the rolls at Pho Saigon, located at the intersection of Grand and Gravois right next to Friends and Luvers. Pho Saigon is a humble place removed from the bustle of the South Grand business district and offering the typical Vietnamese fare, but it's the spring rolls that draw us in. They're soft, fluffy rice-paper clouds filled with vermicelli, shrimp, pork and mint leaves. Dipped in hoisin sauce—we add some chili paste to ours—they're memorable specimens.