The Chinese call them chun juan and fry them. In Indonesia they're called lumpia. And the Vietnamese call them goi cuon. This last version is a paragon of its nation's cuisine, beautifully wrapped up in a chewy-soft translucent rice-paper package, a veritable salad-to-go. The rolls at Miss Saigon comprise the best local rendition of this superlative creation, combining the typical ingredients -- shrimp, pork, a smattering of vegetables, cilantro, rice vermicelli, maybe some bean sprouts and basil leaves -- in the finest fashion, yielding a plump, fresh package that's just begging to be dipped into peanut sauce and devoured. At $2.50 for a pair, these spring rolls are the consummate palate pleaser to begin a meal at Miss Saigon, newly relocated to the east end of the Delmar Loop from its former Shrewsbury digs.