Located in still-flowering Benton Park, Blues City Deli acts as a kind of gustatory crossroads for the varying strains of sandwich styles. New Orleans-style po' boys sidle up to Memphis BBQ plates, and the Italian sandwiches rival anything found on the Hill. All these are superb, but the standout is the Veno, which sets a new standard for excellence even in this red meat-loving town. First of all, there is none of that cold-cut, deli-style roast beef here the roast beef is cooked and dunked in its own jus, leaving it soft and supple. The lettuce, tomato, pickle and onion add a cool crunch to the sandwich, and a red-pepper sauce leaves a lingering touch of sweetness. How do you make a perfect sandwich even more perfect? You guessed it: Throw some bacon on there.