When contemplating the menu at Sidney Street Cafe, we're often tempted to make like that great gourmand Ron Swanson: "Bring us all the food you have." How are we supposed to choose from among the recent options of applewood-smoked duck, the trio of Missouri lamb (recently served with cheese curds — cheese. curds.) and the filet Béarnaise, stuffed with lobster and langoustines. And that is after we've resisted the temptation to build our entire meal out of appetizers like the veal dumplings and a torchon of foie gras with strawberries. Kevin Nashan and chef de cuisine Chris Bolyard present such a cornucopia of delights that it's best to order it all. Of course, this will cost you a few hundred dollars. So rob a bank, swindle a rube or suck up to a particularly indulgent 1-percenter. Just be sure not to deviate from the Parks and Rec honcho's model: Make sure your server understands that you don't want a LOT of food. You want it ALL.
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