The food is terrific, the atmosphere elegant (if a bit over the top), the service superb -- even if the busboy does hover over your water glass. But you don't eat at Tony's for any of those reasons. You eat at Tony's because when you eat at Tony's you're made to feel as if you are the only customer Mr. Bommarito has that night. Tony's is the place where the tradition of sophisticated dining -- gentlemen must wear jackets -- is proudly upheld. Your every whim, your littlest desire, your idiosyncratic tastes are all indulged as if you were as high a roller as the guy at the next table who pulled up in the car that cost more than your house. Every visit is perfection. And perfection comes at a price, which is why you've come with someone who's going to pick up the check.