Who would have guessed that the "Best New Restaurant" of 2003 would require an epitaph in 2005? Back when Forest Park Southeast was barely habitable, Jann Brigulio and Bonnie Stevens blazed a trail on Manchester Avenue. The restaurant reeled us in with a gorgeous interior straight out of a Bogart-Bacall movie, and with the creations of chef Ramon Cuffie, who sent forth lamb shanks, foie gras appetizers and beef tenderloins doused in béarnaise. We suspected JaBoni's days were numbered when Cuffie departed. But that didn't make it any easier to stomach the loss.