You might think the regular bocce players at a neighborhood joint in a staunchly ethnic section of town would look askance at outsiders. Not so at Alderman Joe Vollmer's Milo's Tavern on the Hill. "People have been doing it for years, yes, but if you and three of your friends wanted to make a team, you could," confirms a waitress. "People do all the time." Dozens of teams play in leagues at Milo's Monday through Thursday, April through November registration: $50 per team; winners get their fee waived the following season and at the bar's annual polar-bear tourney in February. The balls really fly on weekends, when the outdoor lanes are open for public play. Cheap beer and St. Louis-style pizzas make for a let's-do-something-different outing with officemates, family or pals. But only till 11:30 p.m.; this is a residential area.