Ah, Tony's. The quiet murmur of satisfied, stuffed wealth. The subtle opulence. The way you can race a server to your chair in a vain attempt to stop him from holding it out for you. The wine list, and then the other wine list if you're prepared to go all-out. You must choose, so choose wisely. But what to eat with your wallet-lightening vino? Anything you want. "Anything," your server will tell you, "except pizza or a baked potato." Do you want a course of foie gras with a Sauternes on the side? (Yes, you do.) No problem. Want to create your own pasta dish with the tenderloin? No problem. Could you get a side of the black-truffle risotto to go with that? Ask, and it is yours. Buildings have been burned and revolutions fomented because people ate like you can eat at Tony's. Best to get what you want while you can.