You won't find "Swiss" here, and the only cheddar will be white, as God intended. Indeed, comparing the kaleidoscopic array here with grocery-store fare is like comparing a vintage Chianti with Franzia. Stuffed into a small refrigerator case, you'll find fromages from small American farms and nearly every country in Europe. There's cheese aged in caves, rich cheese from sheep's milk and cheddar so sharp you'll have to wear protective clothing. They even stock Neal's Yard Dairy, the British boutique dairy that almost single-handedly revived farmhouse cheese in that country. The staff is more than happy to recommend a cheese for any palate or a wine or food to accompany it, making it perfectly accessible for those going beyond Monterey Jack for the first time.