St. Louis-style pizza is a nocturnal junk food. It doesn't really come into its own until after midnight and a few rum-and-Cokes. Only then does that infamous cracker crust really ring delectable in the alcohol-blurred diner's ear. Only then does that pool of red sauce and greasy cheese register in the gullet as gastronomic euphoria. Only then is it scarfed like a sandwich, two squares at a time. Every single night of the year, until the wee hours of the morn, Cusumano's answers that call for hometown-flavored sustenance. Business hours at Cusumano's are 10 p.m. to 3 a.m. -- two-for-one happy-hour specials go on till 1 a.m.! -- and during those hours, that pizza never tasted so good.