Perhaps no food is the subject of more sizzling debates than pizza. You seldom hear expressions of warm feeling or heated opinion on the subject of, say, tuna salad, but pizza -- believed by some to have evolved from Middle Eastern flatbread -- seems to pluck at some particularly primal string in the human culinary consciousness. Between the orgiastic Chicago deep-dish, the avant-garde artisan focaccia and the crackery St. Louis-style are a slew of notable variations, but none so closely approaches the Platonic ideal of pizza as the New York pie. This classic artfully manipulates the critical crust-to-cheese ratio to achieve maximum enjoyment of both elements. Its quintessential representative in St. Louis is Racanelli's; they'll make your hand-tossed pie to order, bake it in a brick oven and never, ever try to poison you with Provel cheese. And they're open every day, which is precisely when you need a slice.