Pizza-a-Go-Go neatly sidesteps the contentious which-thin-crust-is-best debate. A pie from this modest, rec-roomesque south-city joint there's a piano in the dining room and a fridge for your BYO beer fer chrissake is neither the cracker-crusted, Provel-topped pizza of St. Louis nor the nearly paper-thin grease bomb of New York and New Jersey. Instead, you get a deceptively simple pizza: crust just thick enough to support the toppings and with a perfect, slightly chewy texture; a thin layer of ever-so-tangy sauce; the cheese melted to the ideal consistency. Frank LaFata opened the original Pizza-a-Go-Go in Gaslight Square in 1964, moved to South Grand a few years later and then to the current location ten years ago. You'll find his son, Paul, overseeing the kitchen these days. Proof that while run-of-the-mill pizza joints come and go, greatness endures across decades and generations.