From now until our sun goes supernova, people will argue about religious leaders, politicians and pizza. This last, of course, is the most universally beloved: No one hides when pizza's at the door. And of all the magnificent thin-crust pies in St. Louis -- Pizza-a-Go-Go and Vito's are also on our speed-dial -- none delights quite as much as our outpost of Cincinnati-based mini-chain Dewey's. Everything about this Kirkwood parlor is right-on, from the on-tap microbrews to the adorable servers. But what's rightest-on is the pizza. The crust is a delicious paradox: light as air, yet somehow able to support loads of gorgeous toppings, like shiitake mushrooms, artichoke hearts or sausage from DiGregorio's on the Hill. Keep it simple with an awesome just-cheese pie, or dig into one of the twelve glee-inducing specialty pizzas -- including the Bronx Bomber (tomato sauce, mozzarella, pepperoni, sausage, mushrooms, onions, green peppers, black olives) and the Edgar Allan Poe (olive oil, mozzarella-fontina blend, mushrooms, roasted garlic, kalamata olives, goat cheese, fresh tomatoes and parsley). Yes, it's hard to make a decision. But don't fret: Your pizza can be ordered half-and-half. After all, Dewey's is a uniter, not a divider.