There's really no need to get fancy with a pie. As long as you've got a good crust — and, it's true, it's not easy to get that elusive mix of crisp and flaky — and good filling, you don't have to jazz it up by cutting cute little season-appropriate shapes in the crust or constructing elaborate sculptures from meringue. The bakers at Mills Apple Farm get the fruit for their apple and peach pies fresh off the trees in the orchard, ensuring fillings that are sweet and juicy. The crusts are sweet and buttery. Mills pie makers' sole concession to fanciness is their apple crumb pie. But this pie's so good, we forgive them, especially since they offer individual hand pies, for those who'd be ashamed to eat an entire big pie by themselves. It might be worth a trip out to the family-operated farm, just to have the Robert Frost-ish experience of picking your own apples, but if you're lazy, Mills brings the pies to you, at the downtown St. Louis and Land of Goshen (see Best Farmers' Market elsewhere in this section) farmers' markets.
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