Best Pie

The Blue Owl Restaurant and Bakery

With the rising cost of gas, a Sunday drive isn't just a pleasure excursion anymore, it's an investment. If you're going to put your capital into ten dollars' worth of gas, it had better pay off some serious returns. It must be said that Mary Hostetter's pies at Kimmswick's Blue Owl are more of a liquid asset than a security; it's really not in your best interest to hang onto them for too long, even if you have the willpower. They possess that increasingly rare commodity: a flaky crust, the kind that falls to pieces with just a tap of the fork and melts in your mouth. The fillings are made with whichever fresh fruit happens to be in season (and sometimes sweet cream). These melt in your mouth as well. The Blue Owl does have a few liabilities. It's been in business since 1985, when Hostetter decided to leave the farmers'-market circuit and set up a restaurant, so it's not much of a secret anymore. Prepare to do battle with tour groups and other Sunday drivers who've come to check out the old-fashioned charms of Kimmswick. But oh! The pie! Even at five bucks a slice, you'll get such a nice return on your investment, you'll be tempted to try to corner the market.

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