Our ancestors made pastrami in order to keep the meat from spoiling. Larry Lampert, owner of Lampert's Plush Pig Barbeque, makes pastrami because the man can't help himself. If there's some process or technique or method he can apply to a slab of beef, he's going to do it. With pastrami, that means trimming the fat off a brisket, rubbing the surface with seasoningssalt, garlic, cinnamon, allspice, pepper and whatnotthen dry-curing, smoking and cooking it. It's a labor-intensive process, but that's what Lampert likes about it: finding the fun in the mundane. And that pretty much sums up his pastrami: a standard cold cut, elevated to high art.