The panini has become as ubiquitous as Law & Order on cable. There are fast-food versions, frozen varieties (bizarre), and it's probably just a matter of time before a dessert panini arrives. And it is through the dirty lens of popularity that society seems to be losing sight of how fabulous this sandwich ought to be. Il Vicino remembers. The folks at the local outpost of this mini-chain serve up a mean Italian-inspired grilled sandwich. Building upon a foundation of tasty but not-too-dense bread, they add chunks of roasted chicken, roasted red peppers, onions, artichoke hearts, mozzarella and pesto mayo. To seal the deal, the sandwich is grilled to a perfect crispness outside and tantalizing tenderness within. All for $7.75, including a house salad.