Best New Restaurant

The Lucky Accomplice

Staff Pick

When Logan Ely announced he was opening the Lucky Accomplice (2501 South Jefferson Avenue; 314-354-6100) last year, he explained that he wanted a place that would be the neighborhood gathering place his tasting-menu-focused restaurant, Shift, could not fully be. His vision was for a spot where people could pop in without reservations to have a casual meal and cocktails in a come-as-you-are setting. He’s achieved that, in spades, and he has done so without sacrificing the brilliance he became known for at Shift. The Lucky Accomplice may not require reservations or a $100 per-plate tab, but it has the luster of its older sister with dishes that equal the genius you would expect from a high-end spot. Mafalda pasta, made with black trumpet mushrooms, is served atop luxurious parmesan foam, completely reimagining how the cheese is served on a pasta dish; Turkish orange eggplant carpaccio makes you rethink why beef has become the standard of the form, and roasted pork collar has you questioning why the cut is not on every barbecue menu around. Ely’s brilliance is in the way he makes you think differently about food while still giving you something soulful — that you can simply drop by and have such an experience without the pomp and circumstance of fine dining is just another of his strokes of genius. —Cheryl Baehr
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