Best New Restaurant

Little Fox

Staff Pick

Once upon a time, Little Fox was on track to get one of the year’s most rave reviews after a series of visits that occurred over the week of March 8. That review never happened. Instead, the COVID-19 bomb went off, raining nuclear fallout through the restaurant industry the following week and making not only restaurant reviews a relic of the before times, but calling into question the future of dining itself. It’s a shame Little Fox did not get its moment to shine, for this Fox Park gem is truly magical. Envisioned by owners Mowgli and Craig Rivard as a modern neighborhood restaurant, Little Fox dazzles with dishes like ’nduja croquettes with sweetie drop pepper aioli; lime and coconut cured tuna crudo; and an outstanding marinated pork chop, all of which can be enjoyed for takeout, on the patio or across the street from the restaurant at the restaurant’s expanded outdoor space. In some ways, it’s sad that Little Fox has come to stand as an example of what could have been in the St. Louis restaurant scene. In others, its tenacity and adaptability make it an example of all that can be — a perfect microcosm of the city’s dining community. — Cheryl Baehr

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