It's always rewarding to see an old landmark rise from the dead, and the pièce de résistance of the resurrection of the Chase Park Plaza has been the dining room of the "bistro" side of Eau, a soaring, airy space of muted reds, greens and beiges that -- along with Rob Uyemura's clever, inventive menu -- has re-established the Chase as a social and culinary focal point in St. Louis. Simply put, it's just a lot of fun to sit in the middle of this ornate, old-fashioned salon of a dining room.