How long has Harvest been open? A few weeks? A couple of months? No longer than that. Dinner there runs much too smoothly for the restaurant to be brand new. The servers know the menu and the wine list. Courses are perfectly staggered. Dessert isn't a tacked-on afterthought. It's divine. Six months old, then? Or maybe a year? It has that vibe: the hot new joint settled into a solid groove. Wait, though. Isn't that chef-proprietor Stephen Gontram carrying plates to that table? Shouldn't he be in the kitchen? Actually, Nicholas Miller is executive chef today, serving dishes as beautiful and flavorful as when Harvest opened a decade ago. That's right: a decade. Most restaurants that survive this long are content to stick to the tried-and-true formula that made them popular in the first place. Harvest's formula is change. The menu is seasonal and varies from day to day depending on what the best, freshest ingredients are. If, somehow, you've managed never to eat at Harvest, treat yourself. You won't be the first diner there, but you might feel like the only table in the room.