Holy Lady of Guadalupe, El Morelia Supermercado is a fun place to shop, especially on Sundays when a taco buffet — complete with seasoned pork on a vertical spit topped with a pineapple for al pastor fans — is served in the foyer. The happily crowded bazaar of colorful household goods vibrates to accordion-heavy narcocorridos wheezing from loudspeakers on high: Here are resin statues and seven-day glass candles of Jesus Malverde, patron saint of drug dealers; bottle openers with chile-pepper-shaped handles; aceite de oso shampoo. It's not only educational to shop here, but epicurean, too. Prickly pear fruit, whole coconuts, cinnamon pastries, knobs of caramel, jars of wormy-looking date palm and yellow cherries that resemble eyeballs abound. Back at the meat counter, free samples of freshly fried chicarrones are served with a fiery green salsa, and the mustachioed butcher will smirk as you break into a gringo sweat after just one taste. Take a swig of sangria soda, wait for your vision to clear and then smile! The tequila selection in the next section is Aztecan in scope and grandeur.