Mateker's is a mecca of meat, a place where all forms of flesh are cut, cured and combined for your gustatory pleasure. Hidden away in a little slab of south county not far from the behemoth Ronnie's 20 Cine, Mateker's trumps its competitors with not one, not two, but three meat counters: one for slabs of ribs and thick, marbled steaks; one for seafood and hot-bar items; and one for cheeses and deli meats. On one Sunday-afternoon visit, the olfactory senses were overwhelmed by a mélange of scents. A bag of wood chips, perfect for the home barbecue enthusiast, lay in wait by sundry dry goods, while the smell of cooking deer steaks wafted in through the swinging doors that separate the meat counters from the back prep area. While Mateker's counters should be able to sate your meat-lust, don't pass up the prepackaged delights in the freezer cases, which contain such delicacies as buffalo patties, oxtails and tender cuts of lamb and veal. Those who think St. Louis is just a pork steak-and-bratwurst town would do well to belly up to Mateker's meat counters.