Whether a martini is shaken or stirred, it must be poured snap-frost cold, but not so cold that the faintest film of ice doesn't dissolve with the first sip. Olives should be no larger or smaller than a healthy grape, and — this is vital — the bartender must comprehend the difference between dry and wet without Googling it on his iPhone. If you're looking for a perfectly chilled, fulsome martini in a handsome drinking establishment, the always-dependable Famous Bar has mastered the art of a brimming pour and congenial service. The gin and vodka lists are solid but unpretentious, with Tanqueray #10, Belvedere and Ciroc (a crisp French grape vodka) as the premium highlights, plus Stoli Elite for those with James Bond's expense account. Sure, you'll find amusements like blueberry and mango martinis on the slate, but forgo such party favors. You want a smoother, truer cocktail buzz.