A great man once said that a great drinking city deserves a great liquor store. By that measure, our boozy little burg has traditionally registered somewhere shy of magnificent. Sure, St. Louis is home to some fine specialty shops and bars, but for years oenophiles and dipsomaniacs alike have had to schlep their beery frames out to the county if they were searching for anything more obscure than a bottle of Beaulieu or a fifth of Knob Creek. No more. With the arrival of Randall's Wine and Spirits, located just off I-44 east of Jefferson Avenue, city-dwellers with a hankering for a four-pack of white zin can rub elbows with folks on the hunt for a magnum of Château Margaux right in their own back yard. Liquormaster George Randall has outfitted this capacious shop with a fine selection of wine, beer and spirits, all priced to move. Randall, who also operates a liquor store on the east side (10800 Lincoln Trail, Fairview Heights, Illinois 62208; 618-394-9800), has even left himself room to grow: He's currently using only half of the space in his Jefferson Avenue warehouse; the other half is given over to specimens from his car collection. Rest assured that as St. Louis lumbers back toward greatness, it'll have a liquor store to match.