Hangook Kwan doesn't draw much attention to itself. The Korean restaurant, a.k.a Korea House, is located near the back corner of a shopping plaza that is barely visible from bustling Olive Boulevard. Inside, the décor is modest, the music soft, the service unobtrusive. All of which makes the food stand out even more, from the most familiar Korean dishes such as the rice and egg dish bibimbap to the sizzling beef bulgogi to the standout (and occasionally) very spicy stews and pork dishes. Korean barbecue is also available — though not at every table — but you might be most pleased by the ban chan, the array of mostly cold dishes included with your meal. Go slowly, though: Those red flecks decorating cucumber and cabbage alike are red-pepper flakes.
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