Osso buco translates literally as "bone hole." The next time you order osso buco, wait a moment before digging into the tender, braised veal shank — yes, it is tough to resist, but you need only a second or two — and consider this. Is there a hole in the shank bone? That's good. The kitchen isn't trying to pull a fast one. Now, is there anything inside that hole? Yes? That's the marrow, a rich substance often called the butter of the gods; spread it on warm bread with a little salt, and you have perfection. Now, can you actually extract the marrow? What's that? Your waiter brought out a little utensil that looks like a spoon and knife had a baby? That's your marrow spoon. You must be at Lorenzo's Trattoria, a great restaurant that doesn't merely turn out a great osso buco — as well as pastas, risottos and meat dishes — but also pays attention to the little details that transform already delicious veal shank into the culinary equivalent of a religious experience.