There's stuff going on in the food at India's Rasoi that Western tongues can barely fathom, frankincense-and-myrrh-type stuff that adds a complexity touching on magic and makes every other area Indian joint in the areaand there are a lot of good onesfade into the background. The lunch buffet here is a glory, glowing in a corner like a treasure chest: ruby-red tandoori chicken, emerald-green palak paneer, navratan korma as gold as medallions. Yes, Rasoi trades in the standard north Indian fare, but with flair, with panache, with a celebration of flavor and depth. Even the tamarind chutney, an Indian buffet staple ($7.95 daily), which elsewhere seems poured from the same premixed container, is better: sweet and tangy, filled with spice. Though we're equidistant from the locations in Clayton and the Central West End (4569 Laclede Avenue; 314-361-6911), and there's also one in Manchester (14222 Manchester Road; 636-394-2911), we prefer the spacious, wide-open room in Clayton. Either way, the curry awaits.