What malevolent force keeps guacamole from being a more omnipresent foodstuff? Lesser dips and spreads -- ketchup, mustard, all things "ranch" -- force their way onto our table as if it's their birthright, when truly, guacamole, it is you we'd like to eat every day. But all is not lost, because we've discovered a great place for a fix. At Tortillaria, a charming Mexican eatery on the southern edge of the Central West End, the guac is fresh, fresh, fresh. And awesome. The avocado, long beloved for its ability to be good for us and possess the texture of butter, is mashed just enough to be chip-friendly. Chunks o' of white onion and diced tomato provide added texture and taste, and cilantro, lime juice and salt round out this guac mas fino. The whole yummy shebang, topped off with crumbled añejo cheese, is delightful on Tortillaria's pork tamales, house-made tortillas and fish tacos. Take some home, too: It'll make your chicken sandwiches and BLTs happy.