In a city that doesn't pay much attention to Mediterranean cuisine, Olympia mounts a nightly one-restaurant crusade toward Greek-eats awareness. First and foremost, of course, are the gyros, which are the best in town by far (perfectly charred meat, pillowy pita, rich tzatziki) and come to the table so speedily that it's akin to Clark Kent quick-changing in a phone booth. Gyros are just the gateway, though, to a bountiful menu of Greek savories such as spanakopita, moussaka, pastitsio and saganaki. (This last, kasseri cheese set ablaze at tableside, seldom fails to prompt regulars to cheer "Opa!") Forsaking the stereotypical ancient-Hellenic décor for American comfyness and a handsome mahogany bar, Olympia's atmosphere proves cozy and lively all at once. A mandatory trip for foodies and just-plain-hungry people alike.