Popeye has his spinach. Young's Restaurant & Ice Creamery has its fried chicken. How else to explain the restaurant's survival through not one, but two eminent-domain claims, a fate that would have shuttered most restaurants for good? The fried chicken is too good to be kept from its fans. Rinsed in saltwater, light battered and pressure fried (rather than deep fried), the chicken is crisp on the outside, juicy inside and incredibly flavorful, both the batter and the meat. (The dark meat is especially tasty.) Will it make your muscles grow, à la Popeye, so that you're strong enough to fight off any eminent-domain seizures you might face? Probably not. But it will show you why owner Grant Young once ran for mayor of Valley Park (and won) on an anti-eminent domain platform. Food this good deserves to thrive.