Michael Pollan, whose books The Omnivore's Dilemma and In Defense of Food: An Eater's Manifesto have made him the de facto spokesman for the movement toward sustainable agriculture, irked even some of his supporters this past summer when in a Wall Street Journal opinion piece he wrote that we shouldn't hesitate to spend $6 for a dozen eggs. Mere weeks later, millions of conventional (i.e., not free-range or pasture-raised) eggs were recalled owing to a salmonella outbreak. Which is to say: You pay a price one way or another. Those who have come to love the pasture-raised eggs from Claverach Farm and Vineyard — available at the Maplewood Farmers' Market — know that you get more than peace of mind and conscience in return for the extra buckage. These eggs are beautiful, the yolks a deep, vibrant orange. They taste fantastic fried over easy, scrambled, baked into a quiche or tossed raw with spaghetti and bacon for a simple, ineffably lovely carbonara. Six dollars still seem too high for you? Well, Claverach charges $5 a dozen. But think of it this way: At that price, you're paying less than 50 cents per egg. Two eggs for under a buck? As Michael Pollan likes to note, that's not much for a good meal.
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