Sportsman's Park offers two kinds of fries: curly and steak. Yes, both come out of a bag, but hear us out. On the appetizer menu, there's an item called "Loaded Fries." It's a megaplate of steak-cut spuds drenched relentlessly in melted cheese and ground beef. Here's why you gotta go try the Loaded Fries at Sportsman's Park: Because you've gotta drive out to Ladue to try them. Seriously, how much of a hoot is it to venture into the motherland of the golf-and-tennis set, walk into this little restaurant, which, from the outside, looks like a country-club lodge in miniature, snag a table during the weekday dinner rush and then go to town on a platter of grease and gluttony and wash it down with a pint of Bud while watching Monday Night Football on the flat-screens? It's like wedding-crashing, only more filling. By the way, the fries are perfectly donecrisp and golden outside, soft and delish within.