In your hand the falafel at Kabob House feel as dense as a neutron star, yet these deep-fried chickpea fritters — the unofficial fast food of the Middle East — are a shockingly light dish. Inside the crisp brown exterior, the seasoned chickpea mash is moist, nearly airy, with the slightest grain. The spice is gently warming. Six of these, with pita bread, salad and tahini sauce, cost only $6.95: If not a neutron star, then still out of this world.
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