You can't dangle your toe in the waters of Ethiopian cuisine. You must, to mix metaphors, roll up your sleeves and get your hands messy from the start, forgoing traditional utensils — or untraditional utensils, for that matter. Instead, you use the spongy, sour flatbread known as injera to scoop up the complexly spiced sautés and stews that make up Ethiopian cuisine. If this seems daunting, it isn't, and the staff at Meskerem Ethiopian Restaurant goes out of its way to make you feel welcome, no matter how deep your experience (or lack thereof) of Ethiopian cuisine. Once you've taken the plunge, the menu accommodates diners both adventurous and timorous: The doro alecha (chicken and vegetables) and several vegetable wats will introduce you to the cuisine while keeping the heat (relatively) mild, while experts or brave novices can skip right to the raw beef dishes kitfo and gored gored. Whatever you choose, you won't remember the novelty of the experience so much as how tasty it was.