Best Drive-Thru

Fort Taco

Staff Pick

When Fort Taco (8106 Manchester Road; 314-647-2391) first came on the scene, what seems like ten lifetimes ago, it introduced St. Louis to the “puffer,” an overstuffed, deep-fried-to-a-golden-brown flour tortilla pouf that straddles the line between perfectly flaky-crisp and pillow-soft. It was a revelation, as were Fort Taco's enchiladas, known lovingly as “enchees,” filled with potatoes, cheese and peas and topped with an ancho chile sauce, and its decadent tamales. Staff also managed to translate warm hospitality through a drive-thru window. Now, seven years into its run, the restaurant has not wavered from the quality it delivered when it first began, still serving up excellent Tex-Mex fare from its original (and only remaining) Brentwood spot. That you can roll through this fast-food masterpiece and still be as mesmerized as you were the first time you tried it is a rare joy. It's the mark of a true culinary gem that, no matter how you package it, has made its delicious mark on the way we eat. —Cheryl Baehr
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